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Guidebook for San Miguel de Allende

Molly

Guidebook for San Miguel de Allende

Food Scene
This place is only open on weekends, and it is by far the best Mexican food in town. By chance, it's a short walk from the house. Get the giant margaritas and the Enchiladas Glorias. It's family-run and very charming, friendly, and affordable.
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Tacos Don Felix
15 Fray Juan de San Miguel
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This place is only open on weekends, and it is by far the best Mexican food in town. By chance, it's a short walk from the house. Get the giant margaritas and the Enchiladas Glorias. It's family-run and very charming, friendly, and affordable.
This is our favorite place for take-out, but, most importantly, it's definitely the best pizza in SMA, maybe all of Mexico. Get the Italian Sausage pizza and the Diego + Frida (Arnold Palmer).
PIZZAGUY
This is our favorite place for take-out, but, most importantly, it's definitely the best pizza in SMA, maybe all of Mexico. Get the Italian Sausage pizza and the Diego + Frida (Arnold Palmer).
These are the best taco al pastor tacos you'll get in SMA. They open at night on the weekends and stay open very, very late. 10 pesos/taco
Andy's Taco Cart
85 Insurgentes
These are the best taco al pastor tacos you'll get in SMA. They open at night on the weekends and stay open very, very late. 10 pesos/taco
We love to come here to sit for a long time. It's on a lovely street across from a nursery and is full of cool decor. A bit pricier but worth it to get some good comfort food—chicken pot pie, burgers, and some delicious shrimp tacos. We haven't had their breakfast, but it's supposedly as good as Lavanda's. Right across the street, the same owners opened up a more affordable taqueria called Jardin Rama that looks like it could be in Austin, TX. The rajas con elote tacos are super good, even for meat eaters, and they carry root beer!
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Cafe Rama
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We love to come here to sit for a long time. It's on a lovely street across from a nursery and is full of cool decor. A bit pricier but worth it to get some good comfort food—chicken pot pie, burgers, and some delicious shrimp tacos. We haven't had their breakfast, but it's supposedly as good as Lavanda's. Right across the street, the same owners opened up a more affordable taqueria called Jardin Rama that looks like it could be in Austin, TX. The rajas con elote tacos are super good, even for meat eaters, and they carry root beer!
Best breakfast place by far. Get their weird lavender coffee infusions and their different iterations of poached eggs.
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Lavanda Café
87 Calle del Dr. Ignacio Hernandez Macias
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Best breakfast place by far. Get their weird lavender coffee infusions and their different iterations of poached eggs.
Best seafood tacos in my opinion with a great rooftop. They taste like you're on the beach. This is a great lunch spot. Also, the young waiter is the sweetest person in the city.
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Baja Fish Taquito
11 Mesones
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Best seafood tacos in my opinion with a great rooftop. They taste like you're on the beach. This is a great lunch spot. Also, the young waiter is the sweetest person in the city.
This place has a great braised beef rib, possibly one of the best dishes in the city, but you have to risk the extremely uncomfortable ambiance (especially if you're younger and don't look like a rich ex-pat). Don't think they do to-go, though.
Firenze Restaurant
13 Recreo
This place has a great braised beef rib, possibly one of the best dishes in the city, but you have to risk the extremely uncomfortable ambiance (especially if you're younger and don't look like a rich ex-pat). Don't think they do to-go, though.
This place is beloved by ex-pats. It's Tex Mex, specializing in fajitas. I'm putting it on here because it's the most overrated restaurant in SMA. They're never heard of salt apparently.
Don Lupe Grill
34 Pila Seca
This place is beloved by ex-pats. It's Tex Mex, specializing in fajitas. I'm putting it on here because it's the most overrated restaurant in SMA. They're never heard of salt apparently.
Best and most affordable mezcal (try the tobalá), tlayudas (the iconic Oaxacan pizza-like dish), and mole wings (if you like your mole chocolatey). They are very nice and have a big rooftop where they sometimes show movies. Buy a bottle of their house mezcal (Insurrecto) and get some complementary worm salt. They have good espresso drinks too.
Salón Oaxaca
46 Insurgentes
Best and most affordable mezcal (try the tobalá), tlayudas (the iconic Oaxacan pizza-like dish), and mole wings (if you like your mole chocolatey). They are very nice and have a big rooftop where they sometimes show movies. Buy a bottle of their house mezcal (Insurrecto) and get some complementary worm salt. They have good espresso drinks too.
Great Peruvian food, especially the ceviches and pisco sour drinks. Beautiful and upper-scale but not terribly expensive.
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La Parada
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Great Peruvian food, especially the ceviches and pisco sour drinks. Beautiful and upper-scale but not terribly expensive.
I don't know why, but SMA has a lot of really great seafood. This place has a big menu, very cute beachy-kitschy decor, and friendly service. Plus, it's absolutely delicious. Take a taxi or drive there, as its a bit out of the Centro walking area.
Marios Mariscos estilo Mazatlan
81 Salida a Celaya
I don't know why, but SMA has a lot of really great seafood. This place has a big menu, very cute beachy-kitschy decor, and friendly service. Plus, it's absolutely delicious. Take a taxi or drive there, as its a bit out of the Centro walking area.
This is a restaurant-café-bakery-grocery store. It has more organic, rarer items—and parking!
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Luna de Queso
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This is a restaurant-café-bakery-grocery store. It has more organic, rarer items—and parking!
Best churros and hot (and cold) chocolates in the city. Owned by Margarita Gralia (I'd never heard of her either), and she's put pictures of herself and Antonio Banderas all over the place. There's often quite a line to get in, but you can always grab churros and chocolate to go. It's a very popular late-night place for Mexicans. Also try the corn empanadas.
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Chocolates y Churros San Agustín
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Best churros and hot (and cold) chocolates in the city. Owned by Margarita Gralia (I'd never heard of her either), and she's put pictures of herself and Antonio Banderas all over the place. There's often quite a line to get in, but you can always grab churros and chocolate to go. It's a very popular late-night place for Mexicans. Also try the corn empanadas.
On our favorite blog, it's voted best restaurant of 2016 in SMA. It's not in Centro—but in San Antonio—but it's walkable from Centro. It's very pleasant, if a bit quiet. We don't have a strong opinion on it, as we haven't gotten around to eating there much.
aguamiel cocina rustica
On our favorite blog, it's voted best restaurant of 2016 in SMA. It's not in Centro—but in San Antonio—but it's walkable from Centro. It's very pleasant, if a bit quiet. We don't have a strong opinion on it, as we haven't gotten around to eating there much.
If you're with picky eaters, this place has pretty good (the best balance of) Mexican and American food. Its clientele is a lot of ex-pats, so be prepared to be spoken to in English.
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Hecho En Mexico Restaurant
8 Ancha de San Antonio
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If you're with picky eaters, this place has pretty good (the best balance of) Mexican and American food. Its clientele is a lot of ex-pats, so be prepared to be spoken to in English.
This place is on our list for its idea, if not its execution. Every item is infused with tea—so that's a little weird. Their teas are excellent, however. I love the iced mint tea, and the patio is full of hummingbirds. It's attached to an upscale home decor store.
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Restaurante Nectar
43 Correo
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This place is on our list for its idea, if not its execution. Every item is infused with tea—so that's a little weird. Their teas are excellent, however. I love the iced mint tea, and the patio is full of hummingbirds. It's attached to an upscale home decor store.
You'll be full all day after this. The best barbacoa (spit-roasted lamb) in the city. Very cheap, very greasy. It's next to a nice nursery on Estacion. Take a taxi or drive.
El Pato Barbacoa y Mixiotes
175 Calzada de la Estacion
You'll be full all day after this. The best barbacoa (spit-roasted lamb) in the city. Very cheap, very greasy. It's next to a nice nursery on Estacion. Take a taxi or drive.
This place just moved here. It has a gorgeous rooftop and patio. The food is pretty good, worth the ambiance, and great staff.
Cafe Muro
17 San Gabriel
This place just moved here. It has a gorgeous rooftop and patio. The food is pretty good, worth the ambiance, and great staff.
This is great for an evening to watch the sunset with drinks. The food is hit or miss, but always a hit with the jicama tacos. It's right off the Jardin, so the view is amazing.
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La Azotea
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This is great for an evening to watch the sunset with drinks. The food is hit or miss, but always a hit with the jicama tacos. It's right off the Jardin, so the view is amazing.
Absolutely avoid the food, but if you want a night out, the rooms downstairs are quite fun. But don't be drawn in by the roof: slow service and alcohol-less margaritas.
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Restaurante Bar MAMA MIA
8 Umarán
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Absolutely avoid the food, but if you want a night out, the rooms downstairs are quite fun. But don't be drawn in by the roof: slow service and alcohol-less margaritas.
Sometimes you crave Chinese food at the weirdest times. They deliver, and they're as good as it gets here!
Dragón Chino
69 Salida a Celaya
Sometimes you crave Chinese food at the weirdest times. They deliver, and they're as good as it gets here!
French-style café. Small and quiet.
Casa de Café
31 Hospicio
French-style café. Small and quiet.
Very small, on a v-shaped corner. Best coffee in town with very friendly people.
Zenteno Café
136 Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias
Very small, on a v-shaped corner. Best coffee in town with very friendly people.
This is the bar on top of the upscale Rosewood. The food is very good, and it has an unparalleled view of the city. Bring a jacket, although they provide blankets.
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Luna Tapas Bar
11 Nemesio Diez
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This is the bar on top of the upscale Rosewood. The food is very good, and it has an unparalleled view of the city. Bring a jacket, although they provide blankets.
Great international tapas and very friendly service
Tapas SMA
Great international tapas and very friendly service
Absolutely the best torta place in SMA. It's only open for lunch. The husband and wife who own it are very kind and care that you get what you want. Try the milanesa de pollo or chorizo with cheese. About $1 (USD) per sandwich.
Torta Mundo
29 Umarán
Absolutely the best torta place in SMA. It's only open for lunch. The husband and wife who own it are very kind and care that you get what you want. Try the milanesa de pollo or chorizo with cheese. About $1 (USD) per sandwich.
Great cafe and restaurant. Lots of ex-pats go here regularly. You can also buy DVDs in English and get the recommendations of Juan himself, who has seen everything.
Juan's Cafe at 37 Relox
Great cafe and restaurant. Lots of ex-pats go here regularly. You can also buy DVDs in English and get the recommendations of Juan himself, who has seen everything.
This is the best Italian restaurant in the city (if you don't count Pizza Pig). They put the same sauce on everything, but it's a very good sauce. It's kitschy sweet decor, and the service is good. It's right next to Bellas Artes.
VIVOLI CAFE ' & TRATTORIA
66 Hernández Macías
This is the best Italian restaurant in the city (if you don't count Pizza Pig). They put the same sauce on everything, but it's a very good sauce. It's kitschy sweet decor, and the service is good. It's right next to Bellas Artes.
This place is around Ancha de San Antonio 32 (more or less). It's a tiny space with great tamales in hoja de platano (banana leaf) and a very friendly lady who serves you to go or at the table inside. They also have the best cafe de olla I've ever had.
Tamales Oaxaqueños
47 Gobernador Melchor Muzquiz
This place is around Ancha de San Antonio 32 (more or less). It's a tiny space with great tamales in hoja de platano (banana leaf) and a very friendly lady who serves you to go or at the table inside. They also have the best cafe de olla I've ever had.
Just a walk down Allende and to the left. This is another great seafood place. They have poboys!
Grille Torres
38 Guadalupe
Just a walk down Allende and to the left. This is another great seafood place. They have poboys!
This place, called Rosticeria el Machin, has the best chicken in a bag. Just grab a delicious roasted chicken mixed with veggies (potatoes are undercooked, though). They give you tortillas, salsa, etc.. Great for picking up on way home from Centro at end of day. They also have some of the best raw chicken next door if you feel like cooking.
Calzada de la Estacion 2
2 Calzada de la Estacion
This place, called Rosticeria el Machin, has the best chicken in a bag. Just grab a delicious roasted chicken mixed with veggies (potatoes are undercooked, though). They give you tortillas, salsa, etc.. Great for picking up on way home from Centro at end of day. They also have some of the best raw chicken next door if you feel like cooking.
Don't go here! Overrated simply because it's organic and local, yada yada. But most everything is at least local here, if not organic. The food is half-assed, and they'll probably get your order wrong anyway. They do have a little market with specialty veggies and stuff.
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Vía Orgánica Restaurante
2 Calle Margarito Ledesma
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Don't go here! Overrated simply because it's organic and local, yada yada. But most everything is at least local here, if not organic. The food is half-assed, and they'll probably get your order wrong anyway. They do have a little market with specialty veggies and stuff.
We haven't been yet, but it supposedly has the best red meat in town.
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Pork Belly
10 5 de Mayo
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We haven't been yet, but it supposedly has the best red meat in town.
If you've been here a while and feel like taking a break from Mexico, go here. It's a biker bar, the floors are carpeted, and they have tango nights? Okay, so maybe not exactly like the States. The burgers are the best in town, however.
FAT BOY
10-19 5 de Mayo
If you've been here a while and feel like taking a break from Mexico, go here. It's a biker bar, the floors are carpeted, and they have tango nights? Okay, so maybe not exactly like the States. The burgers are the best in town, however.
Shopping
This giant market has two parts, to the west lots of clothes, flowers, electronics, and everything in between. Go a bit farther back and to the east, and you'll find a giant vegetable, piñata, spices, flowers, and everything else market. It's cheaper than the more well-known Ignacio-Ramirez market—and closer.
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Telcel MAX.
18 San Rafael
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This giant market has two parts, to the west lots of clothes, flowers, electronics, and everything in between. Go a bit farther back and to the east, and you'll find a giant vegetable, piñata, spices, flowers, and everything else market. It's cheaper than the more well-known Ignacio-Ramirez market—and closer.
This is a great place to pick up gifts and souvenirs. It's long and windy. Start on Hidalgo and make your way down through its sections, ending with the Ignacio Ramirez vegetable market. Have fun bargaining any price they give you down.
Bienvenidos Mercado De Artesanías
85 Relox
This is a great place to pick up gifts and souvenirs. It's long and windy. Start on Hidalgo and make your way down through its sections, ending with the Ignacio Ramirez vegetable market. Have fun bargaining any price they give you down.
Best liquor store. Ask for recommendations of mezcal and tequila. They are all very nice. And they have the biggest wine selection in the city.
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La Europea
13 Canal
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Best liquor store. Ask for recommendations of mezcal and tequila. They are all very nice. And they have the biggest wine selection in the city.
A much more affordable liquor store with the old standards. Go here if you're looking for something that the locals might also drink, not for the upscale stuff. Ask for the puro de grano, 96 percent alcohol and less than a dollar, which they'll pull out from under the counter with a smile. Mix it with Squirt and be careful. :)
Vinatería El Oasís
36 Calle Prol. Calz. de Guadalupe
A much more affordable liquor store with the old standards. Go here if you're looking for something that the locals might also drink, not for the upscale stuff. Ask for the puro de grano, 96 percent alcohol and less than a dollar, which they'll pull out from under the counter with a smile. Mix it with Squirt and be careful. :)
Every Tuesday from 10 am to 3/4 pm. It's the ultimate flea market. Great food stands, weird food stands, and some you should definitely avoid. Haggle for rabbits, birds, veggies, pots, antiques, clothes, and everything in between.
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Tianguis de los martes
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Every Tuesday from 10 am to 3/4 pm. It's the ultimate flea market. Great food stands, weird food stands, and some you should definitely avoid. Haggle for rabbits, birds, veggies, pots, antiques, clothes, and everything in between.
This place has all your pharmacy needs. There's also a location across from La Comer.
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Farmacia Guadalajara
13 Ancha de San Antonio
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This place has all your pharmacy needs. There's also a location across from La Comer.
Entertainment & Activities
This place has movies in English and Spanish if you're craving a more laid-back evening. It's a very nice theater behind Liverpool. You select your seats, and many drinks are brought directly to you.
Cinemex
This place has movies in English and Spanish if you're craving a more laid-back evening. It's a very nice theater behind Liverpool. You select your seats, and many drinks are brought directly to you.
This is a great place to come and dip in some hot-spring-fed pools. There's a temperature for everybody, although if it's cold you'll want to be in the back pools amid the banana trees. Get drinks delivered to you in the pool, and see how long you can last in the cave before you need to cool down.
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La Gruta Spa
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This is a great place to come and dip in some hot-spring-fed pools. There's a temperature for everybody, although if it's cold you'll want to be in the back pools amid the banana trees. Get drinks delivered to you in the pool, and see how long you can last in the cave before you need to cool down.
Essentials
This is the main big grocery store. It has most things you're used to. Sometimes they run out of half and half, etc. It has a gringo aisle, and if you can't find something, ask. Sometimes it's in weird places. It's also kind of like a Walmart/Target in that it has a lot of non-food items.
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La Comer
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This is the main big grocery store. It has most things you're used to. Sometimes they run out of half and half, etc. It has a gringo aisle, and if you can't find something, ask. Sometimes it's in weird places. It's also kind of like a Walmart/Target in that it has a lot of non-food items.
This is our favorite little store. It has the best veggies and fruits, the weird ex-pat items, and by-the-pound meats, cheeses, spices, and dairy. It's very affordable.
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Gil's Fruteria
2 Julián Carrillo
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This is our favorite little store. It has the best veggies and fruits, the weird ex-pat items, and by-the-pound meats, cheeses, spices, and dairy. It's very affordable.
This is located in Centro, so it can be hard to park (if you have a car) while you shop here, but it has the rarest of ex-pat items. It's crowded and dark and a bit overpriced. But if it's not there, it's not anywhere.
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Bonanza
43 Mesones
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This is located in Centro, so it can be hard to park (if you have a car) while you shop here, but it has the rarest of ex-pat items. It's crowded and dark and a bit overpriced. But if it's not there, it's not anywhere.
This is the best vet in SMA in case something happens while you're here.
PETVET
27 Stirling Dickinson
This is the best vet in SMA in case something happens while you're here.
DR. MARCO ANTONIO GORDILLO MÖRATH Dr. Morath speaks English and Spanish, does house calls, and is very nice. His numbers are 154-9976 or 415-109-5961 (emergency cell).
Hidalgo 28
28 Hidalgo
DR. MARCO ANTONIO GORDILLO MÖRATH Dr. Morath speaks English and Spanish, does house calls, and is very nice. His numbers are 154-9976 or 415-109-5961 (emergency cell).
Drinks & Nightlife
This is the diviest bar in SMA. The walls are covered in real cockroaches, and you should only order beer because I'm not sure they wash their glasses—unless beer's not strong enough to get you comfortable with the cockroaches. It dates back to the 40s, with furniture that old too. Neal Cassady had his last drink here before being found dead by a railroad track. The crowd is mixed: working-class Mexicans, tourists, bohemian types, and upper-class people from Mexico City. In other words, no one will really look at you. Music comes from a jukebox. Get control early, since it has good stuff, or you'll be stuck listening to power ballads all night. They open late and stay open later.
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Bar la Cucaracha
22 Zacateros
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This is the diviest bar in SMA. The walls are covered in real cockroaches, and you should only order beer because I'm not sure they wash their glasses—unless beer's not strong enough to get you comfortable with the cockroaches. It dates back to the 40s, with furniture that old too. Neal Cassady had his last drink here before being found dead by a railroad track. The crowd is mixed: working-class Mexicans, tourists, bohemian types, and upper-class people from Mexico City. In other words, no one will really look at you. Music comes from a jukebox. Get control early, since it has good stuff, or you'll be stuck listening to power ballads all night. They open late and stay open later.
I've never eaten here. Supposedly the food is good. But it's a great cantina for in-between. It's nicely lit, a bit overpriced, but fun nonetheless. Sometimes people dance.
La 21unica
21 Jesús
I've never eaten here. Supposedly the food is good. But it's a great cantina for in-between. It's nicely lit, a bit overpriced, but fun nonetheless. Sometimes people dance.
Huge supposed Irish pub. There's really nothing Irish about it except for the green color scheme and the fact that Guinness is on the menu. This place is also open late, and it plays really good music until it gets really crowded when they turn on the same old crap. It is very fun, and it has a pool table and back patio.
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Limerick Pub
24 Umaran
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Huge supposed Irish pub. There's really nothing Irish about it except for the green color scheme and the fact that Guinness is on the menu. This place is also open late, and it plays really good music until it gets really crowded when they turn on the same old crap. It is very fun, and it has a pool table and back patio.
Live music by house musician most nights—although mainly open on weekends anyway. He plays rock covers and is pretty good, although they need to turn the volume down. You're guaranteed to see some ex-pats get down here. Very fun(ny) dancing.
Santos Crudoteca
7 De Los Suspiros
Live music by house musician most nights—although mainly open on weekends anyway. He plays rock covers and is pretty good, although they need to turn the volume down. You're guaranteed to see some ex-pats get down here. Very fun(ny) dancing.